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Tame Those Echoes!

A reader had some questions about the wall absorbers I described in the April '01 Audio Solutions. Apparently, there were some holes in my writing that the editors didn't catch. So I'm posting his note, and my responses, here for the benefit of all.
Thank you for the April article in DV Magazine, "A Place to Play II". I hope that you can clarify several sentences.

"For a more efficient absorber, mount 1x3 inch strapping on the wall first and put the fiberglass over it"

Does "strapping" mean 1x3 inch pieces of inexpensive wood that are sometime called firing strips?

Yes. Maybe "strapping" is just a New Englandism...

Does "mount...on the wall first" mean to bolt or nail this strapping to the wall and then somehow hang the absorber on it?

Yes, again. The point is to have a narrow airspace behind the fiberglass. You can extend the side frames right up to the wall, to hide the strapping.

"...secure it (the frame and fiberglass) with builder's wire stapled to the frame"

Is the primary function of the wire to provide a foundation for the acoustic tiles? If so, should there be at least two lengths of wire behind each tile?

Nope, it's there to hold the fiberglass in place so you're not relying on the friction fit. The foam tiles glue to the fiberglass with two or three globs of construction adhesive.

You have to press the tile in place for about thirty seconds while the adhesive penetrates.

And a good tip from that reader:

You suggested "you can trim it (the fiberglass) with a knife". For many years, I have been using an electric knife (about $20, the kind that is used in home kitchens to cut ham and turkey). As a tool this is "the greatest thing since sliced bread" for cutting insulation.

It also works on the acoustic foam.


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3 March 2001
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